ADDIS ABABA, Ethiopia (AP) — As we darted through Addis Ababa’s morning rush hour, my jet lag couldn’t dull the energy of Ethiopia’s capital.
We wove through crowds of office workers headed to high-rises and families leading goats home for Orthodox Christmas feasts while our guide explained how one needs at least three weeks to fully experience his country. From the dramatic peaks of Simien Mountains National Park to the sprawling salt plains of the Danakil Depression, natural wonders alone could fill a month of adventure.
But there's also plenty for time-pressed travelers like we were. “With a few days, you can get a taste,” guide Yonas Zewede of Landscape Ethiopia Tours assured me.
So, we embarked on a whirlwind trip that would prove him right, an ambitious three-day sprint through remote sacred sites and bustling city streets in this East African nation.
Evolving Addis: 48 hours in Ethiopia’s highland hub
The city, “New Flower” in Amharic, is being transformed, with construction nearly everywhere you look. Historic churches and mosques neighbor contemporary shops and restaurants amid a forest of cranes and scaffolding.
Among its enduring treasures is Ethiopia’s most famous export: Arabica coffee. We started the day at Tomoca Coffee on Wavel Street, one of Addis’ first coffee roasters. For less than a dollar a cup, the standing-room-only institution serves up macchiatos — bold coffee with a splash of milk — or a milder blend of coffee and tea, known as a sprice.
However, to fully appreciate the region’s coffee culture, one must experience a coffee ceremony, a ritual still practiced in homes, restaurants and hotels across Ethiopia. Incense mixes with the aroma of beans roasting over hot coals, each batch ground by hand before being brewed in a clay pot and poured with precision, as bowls of salted popcorn circulate.
We’d have time for the full service later. For now, fortified by a quick caffeine fix, we made our way to the nearby Merkato, among Africa’s largest open-air markets. Wandering for hours through a labyrinth of alleyways, we passed vendors selling everything from fragrant spices to handwoven baskets and live chickens.
Zewede helped us thread through the chaos, dodging both traffic and towers of merchandise balancing on people’s heads, all the while keeping watch for pickpockets known to prowl the area. Before moving on, we refueled on the side of the road with a warm chornake — a hearty, fried pastry — and fresh papaya juice.
For a more relaxed shopping experience, he brought us to Shiro Meda Market. Intricately embroidered dresses lined the walls from floor to ceiling alongside other colorful textiles. The ankle-length garments, called habesha kemis, sell for $15 to $50. At Safi Honey, we sampled exotic varieties like cactus, coffee and black cumin while delving into Ethiopia’s extensive beekeeping history.
We left with 16-ounce jars of the local delicacy at $9 each.
Anthropology enthusiasts will enjoy visiting a famous — and very ancient — resident: “Lucy,” one of the earliest hominid fossils. For a 40-cent entrance fee, the National Museum of Ethiopia has exhibitions on African art history and human evolution. A plaster replica of Lucy’s partial skeleton is on display, while her original remains are safely preserved in the museum’s vault.
As dusk settled over Addis, we made our way to the stylish 360 Lounge atop the Monarch Parkview Hotel. Here, one of the best views of the capital’s evolving skyline unfolded — modern towers rising above older tree-lined neighborhoods.
Ancient Lalibela: 24 hours in the sacred city
We took a short, one-hour flight north to the Amhara Region, an area, it should be noted, where several countries maintain travel warnings due to recurring conflicts. We were transported to what felt like another Ethiopia entirely. Bouncing two to a seat in a sweltering van, we drove through rural highlands, mountain curves and scattered herds of livestock.
The destination proved worthwhile: Lalibela, a site that some consider an Eighth Wonder of the World.
More than 800 years ago, King Lalibela set out to create a “New Jerusalem” with 11 churches painstakingly carved out of solid volcanic rock. The craftsmanship is so extraordinary — using only 12th and 13th century hand tools — that local legend claims angels helped build them.
Beneath these architectural marvels lie catacombs and ceremonial passages, including a pitch-black tunnel said to represent the journey through hell.
We found ourselves among thousands of pilgrims who had converged on Lalibela for the upcoming Orthodox Christmas. They formed seemingly endless processions through the hallowed passageways. Many had traveled on foot for weeks to reach this holy place and mark the end of their 43-day fast. We squeezed into the stone structures among worshippers deep in prayer. Many kissed the weathered walls; some paused to snap photos with us.
We began at Biete Medhane Alem, believed to be the largest monolithic church in the world according to UNESCO. Its grand scale was remarkable, with more than 30 imposing columns adorning its exterior. But Biete Ghiorgis, or Church of Saint George, was the most memorable site, with its iconic cross shape. Peering down into its sunken courtyard, it was easy to see how this blend of nature, architecture and spirituality has captivated visitors for centuries.
Later, at Kana Restaurant and Bar overlooking Lalibela, we lingered over aromatic awaze tibs (a spicy meat dish) and hearty vegetable stews served on fresh Ethiopian flatbread, or injera. We watched the sun sink behind distant mountains, knowing we’d barely scratched the surface of Ethiopia -– and already planning our return.
Before you go:
— Many visitors, including Americans, are eligible for Ethiopian E-visas online or visas on arrival at Addis Ababa Bole International Airport.
— Despite a 2022 peace agreement in the northern region of Tigray, travelers should note that several countries maintain travel warnings for parts of Ethiopia, including the Amhara Region, due to recurring conflicts.
— Stay connected by purchasing an Ethio Telecom SIM card at the Addis airport — it offers coverage in both Addis Ababa and Lalibela.
— Consider booking with a tour company like Landscape Ethiopia Tours to maximize your itinerary during a brief visit or layover.
Nicole Evatt, The Associated Press
